a study in soft tailoring
Softening structures became the starting point for our upcoming season. We've looked at in a number of ways. With the “jumper” knit stories we are softening what are traditionally tailored garments (pea coat, motorcycle jacket, shirt) and introducing a textured knit to completely change the silhouette. It also drastically changes the way these garments feel to wear, the outerwear now feels like wearing a soft knit cardigan, which is another way of interacting with our customers.
Looking back at the previous winter collection we wanted to keep the combination of softer elements in the scarf jackets combined with the tailored sleeves but without the delicacy of that season. In the soft structure story the elements of a tailored garment (collar, welt pockets, cuffs) are applied to soft, draped garments to blur the line between what is structure and what is amorphous; collars extend onto scarves and pockets float on soft bodies to hint at the origins of the shapes.
In the isolated story we've looked at what gives a tailored garment structure, by removing everything but the tailored skeleton we've changed how those classics (blazer, dinner shirt, cummerbund) are perceived. Print has become a major part of our collections and continues to be developed and manipulated with more devore print, again used to soften and remove structure. We've managed to manipulate the print to physically cut our isolated pieces out of the fabric, it makes for an interesting aesthetic, but beyond that using the print as part of the construction of the garment as opposed to just for a graphic application is more closely alligned to our design philosophy.